I was cleaning up the used transmission that I bought a good while back and just discovered a crack in the main body near the bellhousing. Can anyone weigh in as to whether this is a big deal or not? Is this repairable, or is the trans shot?
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Thanks guys
1970 F100 "Marvin 2" - Crown Vic IFS, 302, C4 (work in progress)
1970 F250 "Leonard" - 302, C6 (project in waiting)
1971 F100 "Walt" - 302, 3-speed on the column (Sunday driver)
2004 Mustang GT "Horse With No Name" - 4.6L, 5 speed (Retired daily driver / Friday driver)
I've JB-welded some crazy stuff together and had it work. The key is getting it so clean around the crack you can eat off it. A complete disassembly would be in order, thoroughly cleaned the area with brake parts cleaner (the chlorinated stuff), fully dried, and then evaluate whether or not you should grind a v-groove into the crack, and/or drill stop it. If you do grind or drill, use soap & water to wash the chips away, rinse and dry completely. After that, find a diabetic or other friend who uses micro needles and see if you can inject epoxy into the crack. Smear inside & out best as possible and let it cure for 24 hours. It's all about the prep work with epoxy.
Otherwise, get a TIG and weld it back together. Having a welder friend is always good too.
1969 F-250 390 Camper Special
Candy Apple Red/Wimbledon White
I really appreciate the info on sealing the crack. I may have someone that can weld it, but I will probably try the JB Weld. Sounds like the success is all in the prep work.
Thanks!
1970 F100 "Marvin 2" - Crown Vic IFS, 302, C4 (work in progress)
1970 F250 "Leonard" - 302, C6 (project in waiting)
1971 F100 "Walt" - 302, 3-speed on the column (Sunday driver)
2004 Mustang GT "Horse With No Name" - 4.6L, 5 speed (Retired daily driver / Friday driver)
That is a heavy duty C4 and that flaw is outside of the bellhousing mount which means it does not need to fixed and it will not cause any problems. Hawkrod
Allison specialist here. agree that crack/flaw is located in a non-essential area. recommend cleaning with carb cleaner and a toothbrush in place and cover with JB weld to prevent piece from cracking off due to vibration and allowing dirt into your bell housing (depending on how deep it goes). Do not get JB weld on the marriage line between the casing and the bell housing in case you even need to remove the bell housing.
keeping dirt out of the bell housing is recommended as it can work its way into the area where your TC goes into the pump and damage that front seal or score the sealing surface on the TC hub
JESUS LOVES YOU! everyone else thinks your a jackass!
jreb333 wrote:Allison specialist here. agree that crack/flaw is located in a non-essential area. recommend cleaning with carb cleaner and a toothbrush in place and cover with JB weld to prevent piece from cracking off due to vibration and allowing dirt into your bell housing (depending on how deep it goes). Do not get JB weld on the marriage line between the casing and the bell housing in case you even need to remove the bell housing.
keeping dirt out of the bell housing is recommended as it can work its way into the area where your TC goes into the pump and damage that front seal or score the sealing surface on the TC hub
Even if that part was gone dirt cannot get insde the bellhousing. That area is a flange and the bellhousing has a matching flange. If you look above the flaw you will see a bolt coming through, that is a bellhousing to case bolt. Anything outside of that bolt circle is irrelevant. I would not bother doing anything with it. It does not need to be secured and it will not cause any issue ever. Hawkrod