9" help needed

[BrockGrimes]

My stock 9" in my 69 F100 is leaking at what looks like the weld to the left of the pumpkin on the axle tube.
What's a bolt in solution for my 69? What years I guess I should say.
I'd like to swap to a 9" with the 5x4.5 from the early 80's but time and money aren't on my side at this time.
Or would it be feasible to just get it welded?

[jreb333]

kinda hard to pinpoint the exact leak with it so dirty. scrub it clean with some brake/carb cleaner, go for a short drive, find the leak. if it looks weldable then welding will definitely be cheaper and easier. depending on if its a quick spot weld or more involved you may have to drain and clean out the oil from the diff to prevent the welder starting the oil afire and weld it empty.

[ultraranger]

If it's a leaking weld, you should be able to weld it up. If the 3rd member is leaking, the gear oil may be getting blown back around to the back side of the housing.

If you decide to replace the entire rear end assembly, any 1968-1972 F-100 9-inch rear end will be a direct replacement. A 9-inch rear end from a 1967 F-100 will be slightly narrower than a rear end from a '68-'72 and will have narrower brake shoes/drums.

[HIO Silver]

No welder? Try JB Weld... it's a two-part epoxy.

[ultraranger]

There's also a metal putty you can get called Pro Poxy. It can be filed, sanded, drilled, machined or painted after a 20 minute cure time.

http://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/HE ... y-20-5KAV9

[72BahamaBlue]

And be sure that breather hose and nipple isn't plugged up, it unscrews at the brake line junction on the left side.
The actual hole in the metal nipple is pretty small, and for some reason the Mud Dauber Wasps like to pack the end of the hose with mud...

[tnlprt]

Clean all the grease and gunk off of it

scrape what you can ...power wash it till it is spotless

Make sure the grease level is at the proper level

Then drive it you will find where the leak is

If it is the seam where the tubes are welded to the housing

That is not a problem just Mig weld it and dont worry about it

[BrockGrimes]

Looks like it's leaking from right at the weld with the circle.
I pressure washed it after work yesterday and drove it in today. No pic of it, it's still dirty.
But it washed off the old fluid and seems to be from the weld.

Now I'm debating a 80-83 9" swap or a t-bird irs swap.
I may retire it for awhile and just work on the body and crown vic front swap. :/

[iwhodat]

kinda hard to pinpoint the exact leak with it so dirty. scrub it clean with some brake/carb cleaner, go for a short drive, find the leak. if it looks weldable then welding will definitely be cheaper and easier. depending on if its a quick spot weld or more involved you may have to drain and clean out the oil from the diff to prevent the welder starting the oil afire and weld it empty.

You don't want to use brake cleaner to clean it if you are going to weld it. One whiff of the fumes will kill you dead in seconds. Please use something else besides brake cleaner to clean the area being welded. There were threads started on Jeepforum about this very subject.

[BrockGrimes]

Yup knew a guy who did that and almost died.
I use a brush and wd-40.