Poor Mans Paint Job

[David1947]

Like a lot of us working on these old beauty's not a lot of extra money laying around. I'm getting close to thinking about painting again. I was reading on the bumpside forum about a guy who was redoing his 67. He was not going for the restore just a respectable looking and running truck (SAME HERE). He made mention of the possibility of trying the Rustoleum Roll On Paint. At first I thought he was just joking and maybe he is. So I looked into it and there is a Rustoleum Roll On Paint process. I don't know what colors are available I will look into it. There is a bunch of videos on utube about this. Not being able to afford a quality spray job or having the knowledge or equipment to do it myself I thought I might try it.
Have any of you done it and how did it turn out? THX David

[jimmy828]

If i'm not mistaken ,you can only get that paint( for auto's) in Canada

[David1947]

Didn't know that thx

[sargentrs]

Here's the original write up from the Mopar forum. http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/sho ... art=1&vc=1

[chad67]

Car Craft magazine painted an early '60's Falcon like this a few years back. Cheap, but very labor intensive as it took several coats with we sanding in between.

[HIO Silver]

Yep... many sites on the web about the Rustoleum roll-on job.

For purely experimental purposes, I'm gonna try shooting Rustoleum on my lawn tractor project to understand how much pressure, thinner (mineral spirits), and spray pattern to use.

[tsherry]

I painted my '67 F250 with Rustoleum over their primer, in safety orange and white. I sprayed, did not roll on, color sanded and buffed / polished. Materials were a couple hundred dollars. Much better looking than the 1970's spray bomb over the original arcadian blue, not as good as a two stage urethane, but the truck was free to start with, and I needed it to look better, not be a show truck.

I did have a metric crapload of time to prep the body. A zillion holes to weld up in the box and the 'bump' along the sides, old mirror holes, rust holes, some dents and dings...essentially the same bodywork I'd have done with a much higher end topcoat.

I would totally do this again.

After and before attached.

[tsherry]

As a follow up, I probably had a day to prep for primer; a day to prime and let that cure; wet-sand on another day, and a full day to topcoat (can't remember how many coats, but a dozen easy. Mix ratio was probably half-half paint to thinner/reducer. LOTS of orange peel with this paint, could not overcome it easily. The roof was brushed, not rolled, and came out beautifully with two coats. Wet-sanded and buffed/polished the whole truck.

If I were to do this again, I'd clear-coat it after wet-sanding.

[hazelnut]

Here's mine. $40 a gallon caterpillar equipment paint. http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=57754

[chad67]

I use a brand of tractor paint called Van Sickle. I get it at a local store called Orscheln's. It's $30 per gallon, and they sell hardener for it as well. It lays very well when sprayed, it should work to roll, too. I would check at your local tractor/farm store, they should have some paint that will suit your needs better than rustoleum.

[67mann]

Yep... many sites on the web about the Rustoleum roll-on job.

For purely experimental purposes, I'm gonna try shooting Rustoleum on my lawn tractor project to understand how much pressure, thinner (mineral spirits), and spray pattern to use.

I shot this truck with XOrust and thinner

Only problem was rushing a second coat and some of it lifted...still holding up today

[HIO Silver]

Yep... many sites on the web about the Rustoleum roll-on job.

For purely experimental purposes, I'm gonna try shooting Rustoleum on my lawn tractor project to understand how much pressure, thinner (mineral spirits), and spray pattern to use.

I shot this truck with XOrust and thinner

Only problem was rushing a second coat and some of it lifted...still holding up today

Thanks. That's what I'm looking for.... it took me forever to locally find orange oil-based paint. Almost had to order it online..... Frickin' California and their VOC laws..grrrrrrrr.

And thanks for the mix ratio guidance.... i'll first try 50/50.

[67mann]

thought I put that info up with post....hell getting old. If memory serves me right....it was damn close to 2:1 and my pressure was around 55-60. It was more of a sight mix than any instructions....cheap paint gun w/o much adjustments....so I might of over thinned to make sure the gun could handle it...Still not a bad paint job for 9.95$ a qtr.

[HIO Silver]

Here's the victim using three coats of Rustoleum Safety Orange using a $10 HF gravity feed gun. I tried 50/50 but it was waaaaaay too thin. 80/20 worked out better because there is no flash time with an oil-based paint. I waited 15 minutes between coats. The outdoor temperature was 77 degrees.

Some slight orange peel and I experienced two hangers... no biggee... it'll get cut with 1200 and 2000 wet dry and then buffed out in three stages.

[sykanr0ng]

The general consensus on the roller paint is DO NOT clear coat, if you do you can no longer do an easy touch-up on stone chips, parking lot door dings etc.

Prep work is the big part of most paint and body work.

When I saw a question on another forum asking where he could find a "budget" paint job for "only $3000 because everyone was quoting him $5000+ for a classic/collectible vehicle (many simply refused to do it at all) I realized the roller paint was the future for my build.

Many people have moved on from Rustoleum to Interlux Brightside boat paint, greater durability, may be fewer color choices though.